קים סטוקל

That's my name in Hebrew - Posted just to impress you with my amazing Hebrew skills!  (Note - in Hebrew, you read right to left)

I spent yesterday afternoon in Ein Karem, a little village in a beautiful valley just outside of Jerusalem.   I joined another beginner Hebrew student from my language school on a "T-Ulpan" of this area.  T-Uplan is a touring program that is offered to help students gain a better understanding of the language by touring various places in the Jerusalem area.  Participating students are given a book filled with history of the tourist destination and lists of helpful vocabulary.  You then go, with an instructor, to said location and the students pretend they are the tour guides!  As you can imagine, speaking in broken Hebrew at very slow rates did little to convince those around us that we were knowledgeable tour guides :)  But that doesn't matter, as it is a fun and enjoyable way to immerse oneself in the language!

At the end of the day, it is a great experience.  It is a very tangible way to learn new words and gain experience in speaking Hebrew.  Learning a new language is really about being confident in speaking.  And practice, practice and more practice, of course!

So what did I learn about Ein Karem?  It's a beautiful little village tucked into a valley, filled with meandering paths, beautiful old homes and stunning views of the Judean Valley.  Presently, it is a haven for artists and other creative folks, so there are a lot of galleries and boutiques to explore.  Historically, it is where John the Baptist was born and raised.  Therefore, it is also where Mary visited Elizabeth while pregnant with Jesus.  The large church visible in the above picture is the "Church of the Visitation".  This is a modern church built over the remnants of an ancient church and is said to be the site of the home of Elizabeth and Zechariah (parents of John the Baptist).

Mary's Spring is another important Christian tourist destination in Ein Karem.  It is said this is where Mary and Elizabeth first met. 
Note the mosque tower in the background of this photo.  Ein Karem was an Arab village prior to the 1948 War and the founding of Israel.  The mosque is now abandoned and no Arabs remain in the village. 

Because of this significance of this village among Christians, there are many monasteries and convents scattered throughout Ein Karem.  The below picture is of the grounds of the "Sisters of Zion" convent.  This small convent was started as an orphanage for about 50 young girls.  Now they also also operate a guest house that offers an amazing view of the Judean Valley.

 

Day 4 - Photo Shoot...and Wendy's too?!?

According to Dutch wedding tradition, the groom arrives at the home of the bride to pick her up and begin the day of festivities. 

Following this tradition, J arrived at my parents' house and thus marked the official start of our wedding day.  Greeted by my father on the porch, J then entered to find me!

I really loved meeting J on our wedding day in this way.  It was relaxing and fun to get dressed at my parents' house, surrounded by my parents, sister and close friends.  And it was a perfect way to begin our wedding day...greeting each other in the cozy home of my parents.   Starting the day in this way contributed to the overall relaxed feeling we had throughout the entire day. 

My two West Chester roommates were our chauffeurs for the day.  What fun we had!  Kara rented the perfect car for the occasion, and we traveled to and fro across Lancaster County laughing and enjoying the time together.  I like to refer to them as "my handlers" :) 

Mandy was of my official detail woman for the day...carrying my umbrella (in the event of rain) and fielding all the details I needed her to remember, etc. 

 

Upon leaving my parents' house, we went to the Ephrata Cloister for a photo shoot with our photographer.  J & I had a great time together...mostly not even remembering that George was taking pictures of us!  

We finished with time to spare...and it was a last minute decision that took us to Wendy's for a little snack!  Not all of you know  this...but J was a very loyal Wendy's patron when he lived in the US.  So loyal, in fact, that the staff at his local Wendy's knew him!  Since we had the time, it only seemed fitting to include a visit to J's other favorite American gal (Wendy) on our wedding day :)

It was amusing to watch the reactions of the staff and other folks in the restaurant.  They wanted to stare...but at the same time, they tried very hard to act as if it is perfectly normal to see a bride and groom sitting inside a fast food restaurant!  The tension in their faces was quite obvious.  At the very least, we gave them a good story to go home and tell their family and friends.

We refrained from eating too much greasy food in fear of accidentally dropping something on our wedding attire.  In all honesty, fast food joints and wedding finery don't really go together very well :)  But that is certainly not a reason to avoid a place! 

I really should move closer to IKEA

I have decided that there are multiple reasons why I should move closer to the Israel IKEA store. 

First...the fact that I went 2x in the span of just 4 days is suggestive of my indecisive shopping patterns!  Yes, yes...I returned to IKEA to buy that one item I rationalized myself out of buying on the first trip.   Of course, I ended up picking up a few additional items on that 2nd trip...resulting in more money being spent in the two trips combined than if I had just been decisive on my first trip to Ikea! 

Second...the Israel IKEA is located next door to a  little piece of America!  What a delight to discover!!  Tiv Tam, a non-kosher Israeli grocery store chain, is not to be found in conservative (and therefore VERY kosher) Jerusalem.  However, Tiv Tam is located just behind Ikea!  Not only can you find all those wonderful foods that orthodox Jews are forbidden to eat (pork sausage, bacon, ham, shrimp, etc.)...it is the most beautiful grocery store I have been in within this country.  The moment I stepped inside, I felt like I was instantly transported back to America.  You see...98% of all shops in this country are cluttered, disorganized and crowded.  Navigating a grocery cart through such chaos in a supermarket is no small feat!  I was very surprised to learn that Tiv Tam is the complete opposite of what I just described.  It felt very similar to Whole Foods Market or Wegman's Market.  Produce beautifully displayed... A lovely deli counter...An amazing cheese counter...A very well stocked meat counter around the outer perimeter...grocery items artistically displayed rather than just thrown onto the shelf.  Ahh...what a delight!

But I am not finished!  This organized shopping was evident in ALL the shops in this little shopping strip by IKEA.  Tiv Tam is not just an oddity in this neighborhood.  The Home Store (the Israeli equivalent to Target combined with a hardware store) is a store I visit regularly here in Jerusalem.  Without fail...it is a mess and one needs to be careful to pick through items to find undamaged goods.  Items are just haphazardly stacked in piles...on display on the floor or on shelves.  It just makes you feel claustrophobic the moment you walk in the door.  Combine this clutter with stereotypical Israeli customer service.  IT DOES NOT EXIST!  Ok...that might be a little harsh.  People do help you, but it takes a little more persistent self-initiative on the part of the shopper to receive it.  
(Side Note -- I do admit that my lack of fluency in Hebrew might contribute to some of my frustrations with customer service). 
So all of that to say...this very same Home store is also located by IKEA and Tiv Tam.  Wow...what a different world it was in this particular store!!  Everything was so neatly displayed.  Items were nicely stacked.  Small items (like nails, etc.) were neatly organized in little drawers.  And I was asked at least 4 times in the span of about 8 minutes if I needed help.  I didn't buy anything because I didn't need anything...but the experience was priceless! 

Moving closer to IKEA would most likely be bad for the budget.  However, it is nice to know that "America" can easily be visited and is just a car ride away!

Something that would never happen in the States!

Postage actually is reduced in this country!! 

I went to the post office on our street this morning.  I was pleasantly surprised to learn that international postage to mail a letter now costs 3.80 shekels instead of 4.60 shekels.  At the current exchange rate...that is about $0.25 savings! 

Indeed...this is unheard of in the US!  Our postage increases so frequently that the US Postal Service has released a "Forever Stamp".  Purchased at the current postage rate...it will remain valid even when the rate increases.  All frugal folks (i.e. good Mennonites) should rush to buy a large stock of the forever stamps to save some money!!  Who knows how high the rate will go....

 

I don't know why or how the Israeli postal service can afford to cut rates, but I will reap the benefits.  Saving 25 cents adds up quickly over time :)

Jerusalem Film Festival

J is away on a work trip...and I am home alone.  So to help entertain myself, I just went to a double feature at the Jerusalem Film Festival early this evening.  I saw two great movies which I recommend...if you can find them playing at a local theater near you.

Crawford is a documentary about Crawford, TX...hometown of President George W. Bush.  The movie tells the story of the local people of Crawford from when the Bush family first moved in...to the present day.  Through the lives of these small town Americans, the tensions and divisions felt across America since year 2000 were expressed...the prolonged 2000 election...September 11...the Iraq War...the lingering Iraq War and the growing disenchantment regarding the war (including the Cindy Sheehan protests), etc.  These neighbors of Bush have felt a range of emotions...from joy and excitement to have the president living amongst them...to frustration about how their community has forever changed as a result.

Kim's movie rating: 2 Thumbs Up!

Hey Hey It's Esther Blueburger is an Australian movie about a socially awkward young Jewish girl struggling to find self-confidence and her identity.  Any woman who has memories of not being included in the "cool group" at school will relate to the story.  There is enough drama to the story to make it touch the emotions.

Kim's movie rating: 1 Thumb Up, 1 Thumb half way up!

Day 4 - THE Day! - Pre-Wedding Preparations

My wedding day was started with a 6:30 AM alarm, a quick shower and an early morning appointment at the hair dresser. 

I have been loyal to Joyce, my hairdresser, for 8 years...across time and distance.  Although I only lived in her neighborhood for one year after graduating from college, I continued to visit her hair salon in Morgantown, PA.  This loyalty was partially enabled because I worked for 6 years in nearby Honey Brook, PA...and it continued after I moved to Boston because I didn't have a hairstyle that required constant attention. Joyce has become more a friend than just a stylist.  Countless hours I have sat in her salon and received some "Joyce Therapy" - as my friend Kara (another devoted Joyce client) and I like to call it.

My wedding revealed a benefit of my loyalty...a hairdresser who knows you so well that she can create the perfect hairstyle for a girl's most anticipated day of her life!   It was special to have my hair styled by someone I have known for so long!  Thank you Joyce for creating such a perfect hairstyle and perfect look for my wedding day! 

My sister and 8-year old niece also accompanied me to the salon.  For Renee, this was an exciting part of the day's festivities.  It was the first time she ever had her hair professionally styled, and she looked adorable.  And as this picture reveals...perhaps she is really 8 going on 18?!? 

After our hair was styled, we returned to my parents' house.  My sister had organized food for a brunch for us to enjoy before the wedding events really got started in the afternoon.  So before getting dressed in my wedding finery, I enjoyed a meal with some of the most important women in my life.  The pre-wedding jitters did make an appearance towards the end of the meal, keeping my appetite in check!  I thoroughly enjoyed this time of relaxation, laughter, and conversation and will always cherish the memory. 

And then it was time to get dressed and ready to meet my groom! 

Alissa, my official make-up consultant, closely monitored my application of make-up.  I am very grateful to her for her assistance with this wedding detail!  Before leaving Boston, where Alissa also lives, I went to her house for a "Make-Up 101" session.  My make-up style has usually been to quickly brush on a little face powder, and on really special occasions add a little mascara and a dab of lip gloss.  But make-up done well is really an impressive form of art...and Alissa has the knowledge and skills to not only know what colors to choose for me...but to also teach me how to apply it!  Her patient tutelage has resulted in me having the necessary skills to apply lip stick, lip liner, eye shadow and even eye liner!  It's handy to know such things on the evenings a gal wants to dazzle her guy :)  Thank you Alissa!

Getting dressed in my parents' bedroom....

  

A quick photoshoot by the beautiful dogwood tree in the yard...while awaiting J's arrival! 

Birthday Celebrations

J and I celebrated my birthday this past weekend.  J treated me to a night out in Tel Aviv.  I much prefer "experiences" as gifts rather than material items, and I thoroughly enjoyed spending the evening with my husband.  My first birthday celebration as a married woman!

Our evening started with dinner at a Thai restaurant, and we enjoyed a view of the Mediterranean Sea and Tel Aviv beach while walking to our restaurant destination.   Thai food is available on practically every street corner in Boston...and is impossible to find in Jerusalem.  I love Thai food and therefore miss Thai food...so it was a real treat! 

  We then made our way to the Tel Aviv Performing Arts Center for a concert by the Israel Symphony Orchestra.  What should have been a relatively short journey turned into an adventure when we drove into the ultra-orthodox neighborhood while accidentally navigating our way to the OTHER street named "Shaul Hamelech" in Tel Aviv!   But no worries, we discovered our mistake, quickly dashed back across town, and arrived at the concert hall with minutes to spare.  But we should not have worried...in true Israeli style, the concert started at least 30 minutes late!  

It was a beautiful concert...but not the music we expected.  It turns out that the English website of the orchestra had never bothered to update the concert list for the evening's performance!   Obviously we were in the right place since our tickets granted us entrance to the concert hall.  We were a bit confused by it all, and even double checked the program on the internet on J's phone.  Indeed, the internet confirmed what we thought...we should have been listening to a Rachmaninov Piano Concerto and a Mahler Symphony.  Instead, we were enjoying listening to a choral/orchestral work by French composer Poulenc and a beautiful rendition of Beethoven's 9th.  Believe it or not, I have never heard this rather well-known classical work performed live.  I really enjoyed the last movement of the "Ode to Joy" melody (otherwise known as "Joyful, Joyful We Adore Thee"...to the hymn singers out there!).  And since that is the hymn we used as the recessional music at our wedding, the music now has emotional meaning as well. 

We picked up a Hebrew program on our way out of the center (even that was an adventure to locate) and entertained ourselves by trying to unravel the mystery while driving home to Jerusalem.  Thanks to my Hebrew class...I now know enough Hebrew to decipher some words!  There it was in plain Hebrew print..."Symphony Concert #6 - Beethoven Symphony 9" and "Poulenc Gloria". 

The adventures of living in a foreign land with a foreign language are ongoing!  No doubt more such snafus will occur in the future.  Stay posted! 

A bit of Boston

Yet another reason to appreciate the Internet....

I have been enjoying listening to sounds of Boston right here in our apartment in Jerusalem! 

My favorite radio station in Boston, WUMB 91.9 FM, features both fledgling/local musicians and the more successful and better known folk singer songwriters.  You can listen to the station live on the Internet.  You can also access 24/7 and commercial free music selections on this station's website. 

My favorite music stream choice is here.

For those of you living in the Philly area...this station is comparable to WXPN...but even better and worth checking out.

Random Ramblings

I know that everyone benefits from the wonders and conveniences of the Internet.  However, I do think that living abroad...one appreciates the Internet even more.  Not only is it incredibly easy to keep in touch with family and friends spread across the globe...the Internet is also such a great resource.  I have often thought about how challenging it would be to live in a new land if 1) it took 6 weeks to send/receive any news from home and 2) you had no where to turn to find immediate answers about your new land. 

I am also learning something else that is wonderful about the Internet...it is a great resource for cooking.  This website, Simply Recipes, is my favorite source of recipes on the Internet.  (Karen and Sharon - you should definitely take a look!)

And when living in a Metric World outside of the US, the Internet provides a reliable and quick resource when needing help with measurement conversions. 

Honestly I don't know why the US doesn't just adopt the more sensible metric system!  Metric is so much simpler...and as this picture reveals, the US is practically alone in its loyalty to the the English measuring system.... 

I was curious about why the US has remained so loyal to the English system.  I learned that the US officially legalized the use of the Metric system in 1866!  However, the use of the metric system remained voluntary and everyday Americans never adopted it and were never forced to adopt it.  US governmental efforts are ongoing (I was surprised to learn this!) to make the change to metric more mainstream in America.  Will we ever go metric in the US?!?   Just in case someone is interested in this rather random topic...here's the link to my source - History of Metric in the US.

In Search of a Mona Lisa

It is said that a Mona Lisa can be found in the Galilee region of Israel...and we went in search of her! 

Zippori is an impressive archeological site that are the remains of a major Roman city in the region.  Archeological work is ongoing and they expect to uncover a lot more in the future.  Although the remains are impressive...including a network of streets paved by the Romans and a large amphitheater...the mosaics are the most enjoyable at this site.  The attention to detail in each mosaic is telling of the creative artistry of the craftsmen who built these beautiful images out of bits of stone, tile and glass. 

The sheer number of mosaics that have been uncovered at this site attest to the wealth of this city during the height of its power. 

We were successful in finding the Mona Lisa!  It is an impressive image of a woman made out of bits of stone and tile...and she really does appear to be looking directly at you. 

 

 

An ancient water reservoir was also uncovered at the site.  It is believed it could hold enough water to meet the needs of the city for 2+ weeks! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

An "alternative" group photo taken while resting in the shade and drinking some refreshing cold water.  Both are essential to survive the heat of the midday Israeli sun. 

Mount Tabor

We drove to the peak of Mount Tabor the evening of July 4th to enjoy the view and a beautiful sunset.  Mount Tabor is said to the location of the Transfiguration - when Moses and Elijah came down from heaven and spoke with Jesus.   So of course, there are a number of churches perched at the top of the mountain! 

 

The Gate of the Wind - the remains (the gate has been restored) of a wall that surrounded this area during the crusader period. 

 

 

Looking towards the Galilean hills and Nazareth through the gate. 

 

 

 

A beautiful sunset. 

 

 

A group photo taken in front of the Greek Orthodox Church.

 

 

 

The Nolt cousins planning their next Israeli destination!

Celebrating Independence Day in Nazareth

For the holiday weekend, J and I visited my cousin who is currently volunteering at an inn in Nazareth.  We have only ever passed thru Nazareth, and were therefore looking forward to spending some extended time in this Arab-Israeli city.  Nate is leaving Israel in the near future and will continue his adventures in Africa before settling back into the routine of medical school in September.  We wish him all the best and hope his time in Israel was all he hoped/wished/dreamed it would be.  In the picture, we had just finished lunch at Nate's favorite Arab restaurant. 

The lobby of the Fauzi Azar Inn, an inn geared towards independent travelers (i.e. hikers, people not traveling in a tour group, etc.).  The inn is located in an old Arab mansion in Old City Nazareth.  A maze of streets that can only be navigated by foot lead you to the door.  The lobby is beautiful with large windows inviting the sun and breeze indoors, high ceilings, and a lovely outer courtyard.

The ceilings of many of the rooms are so beautiful!  This is the ceiling of the main lobby, a mural painted around 100 years ago.  The picture doesn't do the ceiling art justice. 

 

 

Looking down at the outer courtyard at night. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nate took us to this delightful spice shop around the corner from the inn.  The smells were fantastic...I wish I could share them via a photo.  The shop has been run by the same family in Nazareth for 100  years.  The shopkeepers, two brothers, were very friendly and gladly showed us around their store. 

Graduation!

Two weeks of hard work completed...and I even got a real diploma!  I am far from fluent, but I must say that I learned a lot of Hebrew in these two weeks.  Thanks to the patient tutelage of my teacher (Idit) and my dear husband reviewing the vocab with me, I think I will even remember a lot of what I learned. 

I can now read Hebrew...very slowly, can write Hebrew...very slowly, have basic conversations using a lot of basic but helpful nouns and verbs, and ask some important questions.  
But I also learned some practical details from my teacher.  Such as - the location of a great clothing store in the new city center and where to find the best bakery in German Colony (our neighborhood) off the main street.

The challenge will be to continue using what I have learned and memorizing more vocabulary.  I am going to continue with some extra courses at Ulpan Or.  They have a program called "T-Ulpan" which involves touring different areas of Jerusalem.  You go with an ulpan teacher, but the student actually is the tour guide.  They give you a book beforehand filled with the vocab you need for each tour.  Sounds fun and a helpful tool to not only learn my Hebrew but also to learn a little more history about Jerusalem sites.  Ulpan Or also has a program called "Cafe Ulpan" where you meet a teacher for coffee at a cafe and practice Hebrew by ordering food and conversing with each other only in Hebrew.  Activities like this should boost my confidence and firmly plant Hebrew in my brain.  

So next week I am off to the Souk (market) with Idit (my teacher) and another student.  It will be extremely practical for me.  I will learn about the history of the famous market, and I will also get to practice my Hebrew firsthand in buying fruits and vegetables.  That skill will be useful for the duration of my time here in Israel!