We were the main attraction!

Everyone loves babies, and our local neighbors are no exception. In fact, we have learned that babies are very beloved in this community. All of the local shopkeepers love Elizabeth and enthusiastically greet her. She receives treats from the grocer, gets to play with the fruit vendor’s pet turtle, and everyone knows her name. But our experience of this enthusiasm about babies went to a whole new level during the visit of David, Janneke, Noï and Liselot! We had crowds of people around us on several occasions.

When visiting The Church of the Nativity, we were surrounded by a group of school girls from the northern West Bank also on tour of the church.

Initially, they just moved in with their mobile phone cameras to take pictures and talked among themselves. But soon they were eager, but also a bit shy, to practice their English with us. They wanted to know if the babies were boys or girls. In this culture, baby girls get their ears pierced within the first weeks…so babies without earrings who look feminine are a bit confusing!

On another occasion, while walking around the Bethlehem market, Liselot received a kiss from an adoring stranger. The lipstick traces on her cheek were left behind!

One day we stopped to have lunch in a local park. This peaceful scene…

…was soon replaced by this! We felt a bit like we were the main attraction at a zoo, with them hovering over us and staring openly at us (as kids do so well).

Kids are the same everywhere in the world. Soon they were posing for the camera and then became bored (mostly because we did not allow them to take our children with them to other areas of the park).

Beware!

On Wednesday I arrived back in America, en route to New Orleans.  I will be in the US for several weeks that are quickly becoming filled to over-capacity.  I will be presenting part of my dissertation research at a conference in New Orleans.  J and I will spend Thanksgiving with my family and then visit friends in Tennessee.  A trip to Boston to meet with my dissertation advisors is planned.  Not to mention the visits with PA friends, shopping in American malls, and buying all those American treats that I will carry back to Israel with me. 

I stared writing this post while sitting in the Philadelphia airport waiting for my flight to New Orleans.  My 4-hour layover provided me with lots of time to watch people and absorb the experience of being in America once again.  The longer I live outside of America, the more surprising I find America.  Sure, there are an abundance of things that feel comfortable, familiar and wonderful to be around once again.  America is simple to navigate, mostly because it is easy to communicate.  The shelves and shelves of English books in the bookstores is a little bit of heaven on earth!  And who doesn’t love a gooey, warm American-style cinnamon bun?? 

But there is a lengthy list of things that now feel surprising to me, many of which are immediately noticeable in an airport.  I notice how prevalent obesity is.  I notice the huge portion sizes at restaurants.  In an airport, it is especially easy to notice the American preference for orderliness and lines…and the obvious stress it causes when lines aren’t clearly marked or are ignored.  I notice how loud Americans are, compared to their traveling European counterparts.  I notice that America assumes everyone can speak English because road signage and airport signage is without helpful images.  I don’t know how any non-English speaking person can navigate an American airport, let alone the roadways.  Would you have any idea of what “no turn on right” would mean if you couldn’t read English?  All airports outside of America include little pictures to help show people where to collect their bags, etc.  And road signage in Europe is completely letter-free.  You can communicate a lot with pictures! 

And today, I was also reminded of America’s obsession with liability.  Everywhere you go in America, there will be warning signs about the risks involved with any range of activities.  You are reminded regularly in America that you undertake an activity at your own risk.  If you go to a scenic overlook, there will be guardrails and signs telling you that you might fall off the ledge if you get too close.  I also find the warning labels on throw-away coffee cups about the danger of the hot liquid to be most amusing.  Elsewhere in the world, such a scenic overlook may or may not have a guardrail and certainly no warning sign about danger would be found.  And there is a general assumption that people who buy coffee intuitively understand that you should be careful because a spilled coffee could be painful.  In some ways, it almost makes me feel as if the American overt concern about liability treats society as a mass group of really stupid people!  

The sign I saw in the airport on Wednesday nicely illustrates America’s obsession.  It was posted at every escalator and every moving walkway.  Seriously, do you need to tell me that I could stub my toe if I wear open toed shoes?! And if you are tempted to sue the airport for stubbing your toe on an escalator, you must have some bigger issues in your life!  

I

Kosher Land

McDonald’s are everywhere in the world.  You either love the fact or hate the fact that McDonald’s is the symbol of world globalization.   McDonald’s has an ingenious marketing strategy that has helped propel it to such global success.  They alter the menu just enough to provide some food options appreciated by the unique tastes of the locals.  It can actually be a fun thing to do when in a new country…seek out a McDonald’s for at least one meal or snack just to see what unique menu options are thrown in with the ever present Big Mac and fries.  In France, they offer local cheeses as toppings for their burgers at certain times of the year.  I’ve been told that in Japan there are more fish options than burger options.  And here in Israel, the local options include kebab wraps and chopped Middle Eastern style salads.  The kosher status of many McDonald’s in Israel is another unique Israeli feature.   

Kosher laws are far from simple, but simply stated the laws prohibit eating milk and meat products at the same time.  Restaurants are usually either all dairy kosher…or all meat kosher.  No chance of any accidental mixing going on in those places! But McDonald’s takes a unique approach to make their restaurants kosher.  Customers are permitted to choose if they want to buy dairy products or meat products.  If a milkshake or a cappuccino is your preference, go to the McCafe on the left.  If you are hungry for a burger (without cheese, of course) and fries, steer right to place your order.  I have joked with J that they should allow non-kosher abiding customers to buy a slice of cheese on the dairy side to make a self-serve cheeseburger!

If you are a very curious reader or simply concerned about my husband’s fond appreciation of fast food, you might enjoy reading this Jerusalem Post article:  McDonald's Israel - The Healthiest in the World. 

You may also enjoy perusing this Wikipedia article about what unique menu options are available around the world.  International McDonald's Products

A New Way to Think about Duty Free

Large airports around the world share many similar qualities. True, the food court options vary considerably, depending on where in the world you might be.  You may be part of the majority or part of the minority depending on where you are.  The tourist-oriented shops are suggestive of the culture that lies just outside the airport walls.  But in general, once you have experienced one airport, there is little left to discover new in another airport. 

One of the things that large airports all share in common are the duty free shops.  Airports provide this sense of a no-man’s land where heavily taxed items can be purchased tax free.  Duty free shops are filled with the same array of alcohol, cigarettes, perfume, expensive chocolates and small electronic gadgets.  Duty free shops are tailored to the needs of the traveler, since everything can be easily carried with you as you continue your journey.  Whether you are a browser or a buyer, duty free shops are a helpful outlet in helping to pass the long, boring hours of waiting for your departure.

However, the duty free shopping available at Ben Gurion Airport in Israel takes duty free shopping to a whole new level.  These shops are not designed for the mobile traveler.  Instead, these shops are designed for the Israeli traveler wishing to buy household items tax-free.  Alongside the standard duty free wares which can all be purchased in bulk, one can buy a food processer, a KitchenAid mixer, a vacuum cleaner, a microwave, or even a large screen plasma television…to name just a few examples.          It’s an ingenious system that openly “beats the system”.  When leaving on your trip, you stop by the duty free shop and make our tax-free purchases. Upon your return to Israel (whether that be just a few days or many weeks) you pick up your new purchases at the duty free desk in the baggage claim area.  There is even a home delivery service option, if you buy a very large item that you cannot easily transport back to your house.  

It’s a very common sight to see Israeli travelers leaving the baggage claim area loaded down with as much duty free purchases as luggage.  A case  of wine, a microwave oven, a blender, a vacuum cleaner, bags overflowing with cigarette boxes…all precariously balanced on top of their suitcases.  Custom officials typically just look the other way.  Although occasionally you do read in the news of a customs crackdown on people buying more than the acceptable amount of such products at one time.    

Yes, I openly admit that we have also gone household shopping in the duty free shops at Ben Gurion!  It does provide an incredible savings for large ticket items, since these items are heavily taxed in Israel.  As a result, that KitchenAid mixer was almost the price it would have been in America!           

Going Dutch

There is really only one true way to experience Amsterdam, or any Dutch city in fact.  One must join the throngs of bicyclers! 

The Netherlands is truly remarkable in how well integrated bicycle transportation is into the general societal culture.  Biking paths can be found in urban and rural areas alike, with bike specific traffic signs to help bicyclers find their way from Village A to Village B.  The country even has bike specific traffic lights.  I don’t have a picture of one of these traffic lights, but click here if you want to see for yourself. It certainly helps that the country is very flat, making a bicycle ride a much more endurable experience!  In addition, bicycling in a city with proper bike lanes and explicitly outlined (and followed!) rules for bike/car/pedestrian relationships makes for a much safer and more pleasant bicycle ride.

But I must emphasize how very important it is to know and follow Dutch bicycle rules.  If not, you are likely to annoy and frustrate those biking around you (not that I am speaking from experience, of course!).  The busier intersections can be bewildering to navigate to the inexperienced Dutch city bicycler.   And afternoon rush hour on bike can feel just as busy as it does when traveling home by car on a highway.  You definitely have to be prepared and ready to go as soon as that bike traffic light turns green to avoid being run over by those behind you!  However, these technical details can be quickly learned and you are soon navigating around town with ease.  Biking really is a great way to experience a city.  Viewing the sights and mingling with the locals is considerably better when doing it from a bicycle seat rather than from behind a car window. 

About to start our day, after picking up our rental bikes and planning our cycling route. 

During our afternoon picnic and nap at VondelPark

There are bicycles everywhere in Dutch cities and villages.  This picture was taken when Jonathan and I visited Amsterdam in December, 2004.  Yes indeed…that is a multi-tiered bike parking garage!  It is located just outside of the central train station.

For the more interested reader who is curious about the wide use of bicycles (to carry cargo, to transport children, to give a friend a lift), you can check out  Amsterdam Bicycles - 1 Street Corner; 82 Bikes; 73 Minutes.  Being initiated into the Dutch cycling scene by a Dutch husband and my Dutch family, I find the writer and photographer’s commentary to be humorous at his total disbelief at how Dutch utilize their bicycles.  But at the same time, being a fellow American, I can relate with his amazement. 

And this short video is another way to experience the Amsterdam bicycling scene.  Enjoy!

Feeling Alone

Today Israel celebrates it’s Independence Day.  A celebration of the founding of the state of Israel in 1948.  It’s an official holiday, but one of the few that is not a religious holiday.  So that means it comes without the religious restrictions on activities that so often accompany days off work.  The city is quiet, as most businesses, but not all, are closed.  Israelis flock to area parks for picnics and barbeques.  Last night, when taking a walk, I was caught up in the throngs of people heading to claim their spot early for the fireworks display. 

It’s a funny experience to live in another country during holidays.  If that country happens to celebrate similar holidays, one might long for the way things are celebrated in your home country.  But Israel is particularly interesting since the holidays are centered around Jewish traditions instead of Christian traditions.  Christmas Day is a typical business day while Yom Kippur shuts down the entire country.  One must be extra intentional to make your own holidays feel special when the society that surrounds you pays no mind to the significance of your special days. 

So one gets to have many chances to experience feeling “out of sync”.  Sometimes it is nice to be out of sync with the majority.  For example, I was able to grocery shop in peace when preparing for a Thanksgiving meal.  But this out of sync feeling makes one feel strangely isolated.  It’s a reminder that you don’t fully belong to the society within which you live. 

This feeling of isolation is magnified when your host country is celebrating a patriotic day.   I feel no strong ties to the state of Israel.  I have no personal stories that connect me to the pre-state sacrifices and efforts made my so many.  I struggle to understand and make peace with the political tensions of this land that are directly related to the founding of this country. 

So I will enjoy this day of relative peace and quiet in the city.  There is little street traffic noise to distract me from my dissertation.  J is traveling for work, so I am less tempted to go out to a cafe or wander the quiet streets.  Probably not the most festive way to celebrate an Independence Day…but then again, it isn’t my nation’s Independence Day.  But come July 4th, I will be longing for a picnic and fireworks display….  Maybe I will have to organize a trip stateside for America’s Independence Day so I can get my patriotic boost! 

A 2nd Follow Up

Discussing my recent blog post about grocery bags with J, it became apparent the the pictures I had posted did not give a good perspective of the great expandability of these amazing bags!   So I took a few additional pictures today. 

 

For the Lancaster County resident, I thought the Martin’s Pretzel bucket (which is sadly empty right now…) provides an additional perspective about size. 

I promise to not keep posting about this topic…but I am just so impressed with these bags.  I wanted to be sure you had a fully accurate perspective on which to form your opinion about investing in expandable grocery bags.  By the way, they are also washable!   

In Follow Up

A few weeks ago I posted about how impressed I am that in European grocery stores one must come with your own grocery bags…or be willing to buy a bag or walk your groceries home piled in your arms.  Janneke, my sister-in-law, commented on this post and mentioned that in Holland it is easy to find small, foldable grocery bags that easily fit into a purse.  A perfect solution for me, since I usually forget to take my reusable grocery bags with me to the stores.  I made a mental note to look for these bags the next time we make a trip to Holland. 

This past week, I was pleasantly surprised to receive a small package in the mail from Janneke.  Inside were these two foldable (and trendy!!) reusable grocery bags!  
 

Janneke, dank je wel for the thoughtful gift!  Now I just need to remember to put them in my purse!!

For you Americans, Janneke also gave me a link that directed me to this American company that sells the same concept…but in $$ and ships within the US.   Check it out - Flip and Tumble

$10 Worth of Ham

What 40 shekels will buy you in Jerusalem, Israel…. 

Faithful readers of my blog are certainly aware of my ongoing longing for all the foods that are difficult to find in our Jewish neighborhoods.  Pork products can be purchased, but I do not include them in my weekly shopping.  One reason is because you can’t buy these products in the regular grocery stores.  You can only find them in specialty shops or at the Russian butcher shops.  Since we don’t live near a Russian neighborhood (and therefore near a Russian butcher shop), my source of these products is a nearby specialty cheese and deli shop.  This leads to the second reason I don’t include pork items on my weekly shopping list.  These specialty shops are aware that they have a niche in the market and that people who want these non-kosher items are unable to do much shopping around for the best price.  The price is set accordingly! 

So I limit my purchase of ham, bacon, etc. for special meals and for dishes where these products are an accent rather than the main dish.  This recent 40 shekel purchase of ham was for a quiche I made when we received a few friends as dinner guests.  It was a delicious treat for all of us! Perhaps not having easy access to certain foods has its advantages.  I don’t think I ever truly appreciated the flavor of ham until I moved to Jerusalem! 

Reasons to be impressed

J and I are currently in Germany.  J is here for work, and since I can work on my dissertation anywhere I can set up my laptop, I am also here for work.  But I have enjoyed daily breaks from working in our hotel room.  The weather isn’t the best, so I haven’t been spending much time wandering outside.  My excursions into the community have been mostly limited to tea and soft pretzel breaks in the local cafes and visits to the grocery stores in search of the key ingredients to make homemade pretzels.  But more about shopping for pretzel ingredients in another post!

The main point of this post is to express how much I am generally impressed with the German culture and their commitment to being environmentally green.  Two things have stood out to me.  I should also note that these trends are not unique to Germany alone, but are common in other European countries as well.

First, the lack of throwaway cups and plates at cafes.  Did you ever notice that when you go into a Starbucks, every one is sitting around with their throwaway paper coffee cups?  Starbucks doesn’t even give you the option to have your drink provided in a reusable, glass mug if you are planning to stay.  Of if they do have that option, I was never made aware of it.  Here in Germany, the expectation is that you will stay in the cafe.  I have noticed that paper cups are available for people who are taking their drinks with them (for an additional fee), but the standard is definitely non-disposable dishes.  I know that there are many cafes in the US that also serve their food on non-disposable dishes…but there are certainly plenty that do not!  If not for environmental reasons…the use of glass mugs adds an air of civility and luxury to an afternoon coffee break! 

Second, the lack of plastic grocery bags in the grocery stores.  People are expected to bring their own bags.  If you don’t, you have the option to buy a plastic grocery bag, or you just walk to your car or home with your groceries in your arms.  Imagine how quickly Americans would start to consistently use cloth bags when grocery shopping IF the only other option would be to pay for bags or carry the individual items home.  I imagine there would be a lot of initial grumbling because of the loss of convenience…but we would get over it!  The experience has made me think more critically of my own pathetic efforts to use cloth grocery bags in Israel.   I forget them more often than I remember them.  Every trip to the fruit and veggie markets increases my plastic bag pile significantly.  I can do better. 

And completely unrelated to the environment, a third reason I’m impressed with the German culture is their love and appreciation of high quality bread, soft pretzels and all things related to pork! 

Thinning Blood

I don’t like to admit it, but I do think my blood has gotten thinner in the 1+ year that I have been living in Israel.  Winter weather has struck Jerusalem with a vengeance.  The past two days have been cold, damp, and very rainy.  And let me repeat, it is very, very cold.  It doesn’t take long for the stone walls of our apartment building to absorb the cold, allowing the dampness to seep inside.  Suddenly everyone is wearing boots, scarves, sweaters and knit hats.  And even though the temperature is a balmy 50+ degrees F (12 C), I too am bundling up as if we are in the middle of a deep winter freeze.  What happened to my Bostonian perspective on weather that led me to scoff at all those Jerusalemites walking around in their down coats?  I now wish I still owned a down winter coat!!  

The shock to my body is partially due to the fact that just a week or so ago Jerusalem was experiencing unseasonably warm temperatures…as in the 100 degree (30 C) range.   That’s a very sudden drop in temperature for any person to withstand, even the thickest blooded New Englander (of which I am no longer, I’m realizing)! 

I really, really like warm sun and moderate temperatures.  I have no doubt that the temps will stabilize and we will soon have sunny skies and warmer weather once again.  But this colder weather was an excellent reminder that we have entered the winter season.  It’s time to get our sweaters out of storage and dig out the umbrellas so that we can be fully prepared when the next storm blows through town. 

4 Months Later

It finally arrived…my official Israeli Driver’s License.  It only took 4 months, but who was counting?!  We had to call after it, since it was supposed to arrive within 2 months.  According to the Israeli Driving License Authority, they had sent it to me a long time ago.  Hmmm…it never arrived!   From hearing stories of other people’s experiences in this country, I’m more inclined to think it had slipped through the cracks and had never been sent in the first place.  But regardless, I am glad to have it in my possession and glad to know that the renewal process is a whole lot simpler than the multi-step process I experienced earlier this summer. 

Work Ethics

I didn’t realize that having our apartment painted would lead to so many blog posts! I hope you find the experience as interesting to read about as I did to live it. 

So I may have spoken a little too quickly about how clean our painters were!  Having finished the whitewashing on the first day, they moved onto painting the doors and window frames the second day….with real paint this time.  Their level of cleanliness deteriorated when using a painting substance that doesn’t easily wash away with water.  They worked as quickly as they did the first day, so they had a definite messy style.  I watched amazed at their fast and large paint strokes around our windows.  Certainly not up to my Grandpa Amos’ cleanliness and perfectionist standards when he painted!!  We have paint on door handles; paint spots on the floor since they didn’t put down any protective sheets; and windows that now have white speckles and streaks, again for lack of covering the edging.  It’s not a lot…but enough to be noticeable.  We discovered the next morning that our doors will no longer tightly close because they painted the moveable bit that goes into the door frame (what is that called??).  So we will need to do some clean up and some minor repair work to get our home back in full working order and to make it presentable to guests once again. 

But the good news is…they finished in only two days! 

As our landlord stated so eloquently this afternoon when he came by to inspect the work, “Different standards in different countries”.  This was in response to my questioning if the repair work on the windows in our covered balcony was what he had agreed with the contractor to do.  I felt it was lacking…he seemed to agree….  He and the contractor talked about it.  A little more work was done, but it still wasn’t a beautifully done job.  It covered up some of the problem, but didn’t necessarily repair the problem.  But that, my friends, is how things are typically done in this corner of the world.  So we aren’t very surprised at the status of our home after the work project ended.  We are having some good laughs and making the best of it! 

So I have a piece of advice to share with all of you who live in or near Lancaster County.  You have access to Amish and Mennonite contractors…do not take their skills, work ethic, and attention to the finest of details for granted!  You are very fortunate!! 

The Fine Art of Squeegee Mops

Yes, the painting of an entire apartment while you live in the apartment is a bit disruptive!  All my thoughts about how to do the work in the least disruptive way possible quickly disappeared when it became apparent that the goal was to paint the entire apartment in one day.  This is all possible because the standard way to paint in Israel is with whitewash…the painting and the drying goes a lot quicker than with other types of paint.  The whitewash technique would not be my preferred way to paint, as it results in some funny textures on the walls, etc.  And bright white would not be my paint color of choice.  But when your landlord offers to paint the apartment, you don’t say no and you don’t try to impose your non-Israeli customs on him and his apartment. 

So I sat back and watched our possessions being shifted from room to room, while the bigger things were covered under plastic.  I helped where I could and tried to be the one to move the most fragile and precious of items.  It was messy and it will take some time before we get every picture back on the wall and everything back in its proper place.  Surprisingly, the only damage was a torn lampshade and a few spots of whitewash, most of which could be easily wiped clean.  Not only were the painters quite neat when working, I was also very impressed with how well the painters cleaned up after themselves. 

Shortly after they arrived the first day, the supervisor asked for me to give them my floor cleaning supplies.  It’s amazing what you can communicate via gestures and simple words!  I had succeeded in understanding his wish, but I failed to supply him with the “proper” cleaning supplies…as so clearly suggested by his look of dissatisfaction on this face when I presented a mop and bucket.

When I clean floors, I use a mop and bucket.  When Israelis and Arabs clean floors, they dump some soapy water on the floor and use a squeegee mop.  A squeegee mop comprises of a long, skinny rubber attachment that serves to push water across the floor.  And then…added bonus here…you can then wrap a sturdy cloth around this attachment and wipe the floor dry….um, that would be dry-ish.  I find them inefficient, not to mention completely gross because of how dirty the drying cloth quickly becomes.

So I headed out to buy the necessary attachment and clothes.  At least I had more of a clue about what cleaning supplies they needed, compared to my woeful confusion about the proper coffee!  This purchase required no repeated trips and no handwritten notes in Hebrew! 

All that said, I do appreciate their efforts to clean up after themselves.  Granted, squeegee mopping water quickly dirtied by remnants of whitewash around the floor doesn’t result in immaculate cleanliness…but it was a worthy start for which I am most grateful.

The Fine Distinctions of Instant Coffee

I am not a coffee drinker and therefore don’t pretend to know a lot about the differences that exist between different types of coffee.  But I do know that instant coffee, in general, is considered to a rather tasteless alternative to the “real thing”.  All coffee drinkers that I know steer far clear of the stuff.  But here in Israel, NesCafe and the like are extremely popular drink options.  And if you aren’t careful, you will be offered a fine, steaming cup of instant coffee.  (Sometimes it is a good thing to be able to say you are not a coffee drinker!!). 

My experiences of today have taught that not all instant coffee is created equal.  Let me explain…. 

Our apartment is being painted, along with some other maintenance work.  Today was the first day, and the three workers showed up at 8:00 AM sharp.  That, in and of itself, is quite an impressive detail, considering that everyone in the Middle East seems to run on any time other than the pre-agreed upon time.  

I am accustomed to contractors showing up at the job, ready to work.  All needs for coffee, breakfast, etc. would have been taken care before arriving at the day’s job.  Well, the first thing on the agenda of our painters was to drink a cup of coffee…and thus started the first of many coffee breaks (about one break every hour) and the great coffee dilemma. I didn’t realize that I would be responsible to serve coffee to the painters.  J and I don’t drink coffee and don’t have coffee in the house.  Our guests are able to pick up  a very nice cup of excellent coffee at the cafe across the street…which is probably far better than what we would try to make anyway.  Luckily, or so I thought,  I remembered that there was a small container of Instant Maxwell House coffee in the cupboard (left here by a guest who brought it along knowing that I wouldn’t serve her coffee…and not knowing good coffee would be available across the street).  Thinking that everyone in the Middle East prefers instant coffee anyway…I thought the problem was easily solved.  So it wasn’t the Israeli brand of instant coffee…but instant coffee is instant coffee, right??

The painters were not impressed.  Two mugs came back 1/2 full, one mug came back 2/3 full.  They tried to explain what the kind of coffee they wanted.  They don’t speak English.  I don’t speak Hebrew or Arabic.  The discussion did not go very smoothly.   

About an hour later I needed to go out and make a purchase to resolve another cultural dilemma (more about that later).  I decided to stop by the store and buy coffee for these guys.  I asked the clerk for the type of coffee I thought they told me they wanted.  I came home with a chicory beverage…an herbal replacement for coffee.  I was doubtful, but the clerk seemed to instantly know what I was asking for.  So I concluded that it must be the right stuff…as nasty as it sounded to me, this non-coffee drinker. 

Well, my rather bad pronunciation of Hebrew had led to me buying the wrong thing.  So I went back to the store again, this time with a note that had the name of the desired coffee written in Hebrew.  I was quite confident that I had made the right purchase by comparing my note with the package writing.  It seemed that they really did need to have the Israeli brand of instant coffee.  I was thankful that I could exchange the chicory drink without trouble (returning things items is generally less easy than it is in the US), and I returned home, sure of my success.

Nope…still not correct.  But I couldn’t return this one because they had opened it before realizing it was not the right kind of coffee.  So I went back to the store for the third time.  This time with a more elaborate note and one of their phone numbers so that the clerk could call them with any questions.  This coffee need was a serious matter in their opinion.  This time, I didn’t try to solve it myself…I again went to a clerk, showing them the note instead of trying to pronounce the words myself.  Turns out they wanted Turkish coffee.  When I saw their delighted smiles, I knew we finally had success.   

Turkish coffee really isn’t instant coffee…which largely contributed to my confusion on this matter.  But they make a cup of Turkish coffee like it is instant. 
Coffee Grounds + hot water = drinkable beverage. 
It just means that all those grounds are sitting nice and thick at the bottom of the mug when they finish. See picture to the left.  Ugh!!  Imagine the consistency of watery mud. 

At least the painters were happy and seemed very grateful of my efforts to meet their coffee need!! 

The good news is that I can now offer at least three different kinds of instant coffee to our guests…Maxwell House Instant Coffee, Israeli Brand Instant Coffee, and Turkish Coffee (which pretends to be instant).  But for all you coffee drinkers, don’t be scared…at least the chicory stuff is no longer in the house!    

I passed!

Earlier this week I received a call from the driving school, informing me that my driving exam was scheduled for Wednesday at 7:10. 
To which I responded, “7:10 PM?”. 
“No, 7:10 AM, and your pre-test lesson will begin at 6:30 AM.  But it’s a good time to take a test.” 

I am not a morning person, and the thought of taking a test so early in the morning was not intuitively appealing.  But I focused on the positives.  There would be much less car traffic on the road and fewer pedestrians jay-walking.  I would not have time to get nervous during the day while waiting for my test.  I still considered it a crazy system to schedule tests so early in the morning…but there were definite perks to the early time. 

So I awoke this morning at 6:00 AM sharp, met my driving instructor at 6:25 AM who had kindly offered to pick me up directly outside our apartment, and observed Jerusalem awaken while practicing driving around the neighborhoods.  7:05 AM we arrived at the driving test complex, where I met the other person who would take the test with me.  In total, my portion of the test only lasted about 12-15 minutes.  I didn’t need to parallel park!  And even though nerves resulted in a few more jerks than normal with the stick shift, I managed to not stall the car. 

I got out of the car, anxious to hear if I passed or failed.  But to my surprise and dismay, the tester just walked away!  I turned to follow him, assuming he would tell me inside the office.  But I was intercepted by Moshe, my driving instructor, who then explained that I would only find out if I had passed after 4:00 PM!  Yet another delay in the process!! 

4:00 came and went without receiving a call.  The suspense was killing me, and finally at 5:30 I called the driving school.  “Oh yes Kim, you passed the test.  You can pick up you license at the driving licensing office tomorrow.”  I’m not sure…were they planning to inform me of this news?! 

So all that remains in my saga to obtain an Israeli Driver’s license is to go back to the Licensing Authority office and pick up my driver’s license!  But there is a high probability that there might be another unknown step that awaits me.  I wouldn’t be surprised, after all I have needed to go through in the past few weeks.  I will, at least, remember to go well before the 10:30 AM break time! 

Driving License

I am learning first hand how tedious (and frustrating) it can be to deal with Israeli bureaucracy.  I am in the midst of getting my Israeli driver’s license, a multi-step process that has amazed me at its lack of efficiency!  Officially, a foreigner is allowed to drive with their foreign driver’s license for one year.  The end of my first year (according to my visa) is approaching.  Thankfully I started the process early enough, as it seems to take many weeks to actually accomplish the goal.  I started about 3 weeks ago…

Step 1 – Get a temporary Israeli ID number that will only be used on my driver’s license.  I need a temporary number since I am not a citizen.  This involves going to the Licensing Authority, taking a number that marks your turn, and waiting for your turn.  If you are lucky…a 30 minute or less wait.  If you are unlucky, especially if you arrive over the mid-morning lunch break when the place comes to a complete standstill…a 2+ hour wait.  I was lucky with step 1! 

Step 2 – Eye Exam and License Photo.  This must be completed at one of the designated optometrist shops around town.  The exam is identical to the test we are given at American driving licensing centers…a 30 second test of reading the bottom line and telling where you see the flashes of light.   Worth the time to make a special trip to an optometrist and the 40 shekels?…not really!

Step 3 – Doctor Exam – Another 30 second encounter!  You look healthy and don’t have any of the listed diagnoses…check, check, and signed.  But considerable time was involved with making an appointment, getting to the office for the appointment, and then waiting to be seen by the doctor.  All for a 30 second visit?! 

Step 4 – Get the stamp to designate that I do not need to take the written examination.  Since I have a driver’s license from another country, I am only required to take the driving exam.  Thank goodness…I can’t imagine trying to take a written exam in Hebrew!!  So, a return trip the driving licensing authority is required.  This trip…I wasn’t so lucky with my timing, having forgotten about the mid-morning break.  But I did remember to bring a book to read, and the people watching at such a place is great entertainment!

Step 5 – Driving School.  The Israeli driving licensing process requires every foreign driver applying for an Israeli license to take at least one lesson before the test.  I learned that brand new drivers need to take a minimum of 28 lessons!  The driving school serves as the liaison between you and the licensing authority and makes the necessary arrangements for the driving test.  All the aforementioned paperwork is handed over to the driving school and you wait…wait…wait to be told when you will take your test.  You go when you are told…not necessarily when it is convenient for your schedule. 

Step 6 – Pay for driving exam.  Payment is rendered at your local post office.  A trip to the post office somehow usually involves at least a 30 minute wait… 

Step 7 – Driving Test.  Immediately prior to the test, you have one last lesson with the driving instructor, which ends at the driving test center.  For the test, it might be you and the examiner in the car.  Or perhaps 2-3 other people taking their tests will be in the car and you all take a turn.  This exam will be given on the streets of Jerusalem, not in a designated testing lot like when I took my test at age 16. 
I thought my test would be this Friday, but was told today that I now need to wait until the end of next week.

If I pass:
Step 8 – Picking up your Driver’s License.  The helpful secretary at the driving school will tell me what to do.  I assume this is also done at the licensing authority.  Note to self, go early in the morning and well before the 10:30 AM break time! 

If I don’t pass:
Step 8 – return to step 5, take more lessons if needed, and wait to be told when I can retake the test.
 
One reason for at least one week of time this process has taken is actually not the fault of the bureaucracy.  I am currently stalled (no pun intended!) at Step 5, the driving lessons.  I am taking lessons to improve my manual driving skills.  In Israel, taking the driving exam in an automatic car is listed as a restriction on your driver’s license.  And since the majority of rental cars in Europe (and borrowed family cars in Holland!) are manual, J and I thought it would be a good opportunity for me to improve my skills.  I don’t think the crowded streets of Jerusalem are the best place to practice!  But, if I can drive stick shift in these conditions well enough to pass the exam, I can drive stick shift in any situation :)  It’s been going well, and if I can keep from getting flustered during the test, I think I have a good chance of passing!  My instructor has told me that I am ready to take the test and would pass me if he was my examiner! 

My test will hopefully be next Thursday or Friday!  I will keep you posted about the outcome. 

Missing Target….

Believe it or not, the shop owners usually have what you are looking for!  Thankfully, they know where to look. 

This picture was taken in a shop in the Old City.  Not all shops in Israel are as cluttered as the ones you find in the Old City.  But, in general, I do miss the orderly shopping experience so readily available in the USA!

Experiencing Passover

Passover has long been ended, but I am still slowly catching up on blogging!  It was an interesting experience to be living in the Jewish neighborhoods during Passover.  I had mentioned in a previous post the flurry of activity that occurs to remove all leavened products from homes, grocery shops and restaurants.  We survived quite well during the week, despite the lack of bread and more limited choices when grocery shopping! 

We did try out the special Passover burger at McDonald’s.  Even though our local McD’s is not kosher, they are “sensitive” to folks who like to eat kosher-style but aren’t strict about eating at kosher certified restaurants.  This means McDonald’s did not serve bread, even though they are willing to put cheese on your burger if you request it.  Instead, the hamburgers were served with a special Passover “bread”.  It was barely edible, in my opinion.  It was dense, very solid, and had an odd flavor.  Bread products need yeast!!     

I also wanted to share this picture I quickly snapped while I was in our local grocery store during Passover week.  I felt a bit paparazzi as I tried to discretely take this photo!  Everything behind the plastic is food that cannot be eaten, and therefore not sold, during the Passover.  Probably about 1/3 or more of the store was behind plastic for the duration of the week. 

I find that following the Jewish law lends itself to making life feel very complicated!  I suppose that if you grow up with the traditions, all the rules feel normal and make perfect sense.  But for a non-Jew, it seems cumbersome and sometimes nonsensical!  For example, during Passover, religious Jews are not allowed to own any leavened products.  This means that every household needs to dispose of these products, while the very religious will even go to lengths to ceremonially burn these products.  For others, this means selling these products to non-Jewish parties, all of which is facilitated by the rabbis.  So religious Jewish shopkeepers will need to "sell” all the products behind that plastic.  Yes…it is sold, but it still sits in their stores!  At the end of Passover, shopkeepers repurchase the items.  And…they are back in business!  In addition, Jewish homes are scrubbed and scrubbed again, in preparation of Passover.  This cleaning is to be sure to remove every trace of yeast products from the home.  What I don’t understand is why it is OK to buy food during Passover in a store where these forbidden foods are just tucked away behind plastic?  It simply just does not make sense to me!! 

Passover

This evening marks the beginning of the week-long Passover holiday.  As a Christian, I thought this was one Jewish holiday that would be familiar to me!  In Sunday School we learned about the flight of the Israelites from Egypt, the event this Jewish holiday is in remembrance of.  We learned about how the Israelites were instructed to put blood on the door frames of their homes so that the angel of the Lord would “pass over” their home and therefore save their household from the plight of the 10th plague, the killing of the first born sons. 

However, living in Israel certainly provides a unique glimpse into the experiences of Jewish holidays.  One of the most important components of the Passover holiday is the complete avoidance of eating leavened bread and products containing wheat, rye, barley, and oats.  What surprised me was the thoroughness of religious Jewish people in observing this command.  Homes are scrubbed and then scrubbed again to remove every little trace of yeast and wheat from their homes.  The smell of bonfires was heavy in today’s air, as the more orthodox religious people burn the remaining forbidden products that had been in their home.  Grocery stores are totally transformed.  The stock of products containing the forbidden ingredients have been dwindling in recent weeks, slowly being replaced with boxes and boxes of matzo (unleavened bread) and meringue treats (seems to be the replacement for cookies!).  And today, grocery store clerks were rushing about putting their remaining stock behind opaque sheets of plastic.

Tomorrow afternoon/evening, J and I are planning to attend the Samaritan Passover.  They allow non-Jewish people to observe their rituals and sacrifices.  I’m not sure what to expect! We have been told by people who have attended this event in previous years that it gives an excellent impression of what sacrifices must have been like at the temple during the time of Christ.  I’m not sure if we will be allowed to take pictures or not.  If we are, I’ll be sure to post a few to share with you.   In the meantime, this newspaper article has a few pictures to give you an idea of what we will be observing.